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This article is the second in a series by Ron Fryer of Fryer's Auto Upholsterey. and is a follow-up to a complete guide to replacing your headliner.

The rear window will have to be removed, but the front window does not. You can glue the front of the headliner to the curved header next to the windshield, then tuck the edge under the rubber. The rear of the roof does not have anywhere to glue along the sides of the window, therefore, the headliner must be glued to the pinchweld which the window rubber goes over. Sometimes there are even a few clips that go over the headliner in this area.

Removing the rear window is not difficult. You must first remove the stainless outer window moldings by bending the clips away from the body of the car with a special tool available at an auto parts store. (It looks kind of like an arrowhead, and is specifically for removing window molding. Usually $5-6). Next, go on the inside of the car with as many flat bladed screwdrivers and putty knives as you can find. Begin near the top a few inches below the corner and insert one of the screwdrivers behind the rubber with the blade toward the glass. Push the screwdriver behind the metal pinchweld by moving the handle toward you and then toward the window in a 180 degree arc, then sliding the screwdriver behind the metal, so as to hold the rubber away from the pinchweld.

Repeat this step every two to three inches until you run out of screwdrivers and putty knives, or until you have at least 1/4 of the window rubber laid back. Then push outward on the glass, using the flat of your hand. You will see the glass and rubber move, and some of the screwdrivers will fall out. Use these screwdrivers to continue around the top and other side until you have three sides loose. Then you can go outside and lift the window out.

Putting the window in is easier. (Thank Goodness!) After your headliner is securely in place, put the window with the rubber on it, on a table or workbench. It is a good idea to place it on a blanket so it doesn't scratch. Spray the rubber with silicone spray on the inside edges, especially where the pinchweld goes. Then insert a piece of clothesline into the channel where the pinchweld goes, completely around the window, crossing the ends at the middle of the top of the window. Leave a foot or so loose, hanging to the inside of the window. Next, place the window into the opening with the clothesline ends inside the car. Have someone place light to medium pressure inward on the window with one hand, while tapping the window (where you are) with the flat of their hand. On the inside, take one of the clothesline ends and pull towards the inside of the car with a gentle circular motion. You will see the rubber come around the pinchweld and the window coming into place. Do not worry if a small portion of the rubber misses pulling around. Just have your helper pat on the outside at that area while you pull, and the rubber should begin to come around again. The little section that missed can be pulled around with a screwdriver or a (dulled) cotterpin puller (hook tool). When the rubber is completely pulled around the pinchweld, pat the outside completely around to seat the window. Replace the outer stainless window molding by pressing unto place. Clean up and you are done.

If you do not remove the rear window, your headliner will pull away from the window area after a few warm days.

Visit our website for more information: Fryer's Auto Upholsterey.

Ron Fryer
rcfryer@juno.com

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